New Zealand - Nelson to Kaikoura

Well we were sorely disappointed to find that the sun was shining on one of our travelling days. We also weren't overly impressed with a further flat tyre antics - we can only assume a slow puncture. So, it was off for more gas and fuel before we set off.

The rough guide describes the journey pretty well - you pass through some cracking mountainous terrain, hit Blenheim with it's lower lying flatter land and expansive vineyards - Montana in particular are doing well - before heading through some more rolling green hills eventually leading onto the coast road.

First stop was Totara Scenic Reserve. A fantastic little gorge with amazing turquoise river flowing through. Bit of a busmans holiday but I do look at the rivers and generally feel impressed!

The road generally hugs the coastline, occasionally dipping through tunnels or criss crossing the trans-scenic railway. The mountains are never far from the coast and the black beaches and rugged coastline makes for some excellent views. By this stage however, we were again experiencing our usual travelling conditions with overcast conditions and rain.

This stretch of coast is reknowned for it's fur seal population - on the road to recovery after mass hunting in the past. There's plenty of stopping points to get a potentially too close and smelly encounter. We stopped off at a couple.

Apart from the amazing scenery, we are continually being astounded by the New Zealand wildlife. On this occasion it was a scenic reserve at Ohau Stream Walk. It's advertised as a walk (10 minutes) to a waterfall. It's literally opposite a big seal colony so most people don't bother. What an experience they miss.

An assumption (by me) is that as the big males are getting aggressive in the mating season, the young and juvenile males need to head somewhere else. Instead of heading down the coast, a number of the enterprising little fellas have headed inland up a rocky stream. It took us 10 minutes to walk it but takes a seal about 20 to climb, drag and slither their way up to a deep pool at the base of a waterfall. When we got there, four of them were messing about while two lounged on the far bank. Another two made the climb from the sea to join them. The constant play fighting, jumping and splashing around was captivating.

That said, it was also raining and cold - when we could bear that no longer we headed back on our journey. The weather picked up but there was still a lot of cloud around. After a brief snack lunch we booked onto a whale watch tour - 07:15 tomorrow - early. We also learnt that for the first time in ages a Southern Right Whale and calf had entered the bay - we couldn't get a really good view but did manage a glimpse. The trip tomorrow should be great. We bought provosions for a night in and retired early for tomorrows trip.

The main thoughts in our heads were those from the dutch couple we met kayaking - not only had they told us about the waterfall, but after 5-minutes on the whale watch tour, the lady was very sea sick. We should check the warnings in the morning before paying! Hmmm...not much beer tonight then!